Dissident voices from different countries and disciplines will meet in Disobedient Fashion 2017 aiming to contribute content and generate useful debate on the limits of what fashion is capable of being and doing.
An original idea from the Malvestidas collective, the conference is a call to (mis)understand the dominant notions of Eurocentric fashion and to examine the relationship between fashion and power in order to question its effects on local and global contemporary culture.
We believe that by placing disobedience at the center of the discussion, as liberation in praxis, we will be able to think of clothing not only as a powerful weapon of oppression and control but, also, of empowerment and subversion.
The first version of Disobedient Fashion will bring together the worlds of Social Sciences, Arts and Fashion Industries around the subjects of Bodies in battle, Dressing and resisting and Situated practices. These will be discussed in panels, academic essays presentations, workshops and a group activity.
All events at Disobedient Fashion are free of charge.
Country: United Kingdom
Archiect, visual artist, profesor of Textile and Fashion and researcher from the School of Arts, Science and Humanities of the University of São Paulo (EACH/USP). She has postdoctorate studies (FAPESP/2009 Scholarship) from the “Fashion, Culture and Art” programme of the SENAC/SP University Centre, PhD (FAPESP/2006 Scholarship) in “Education, Knowledge, Language and Art” from the Education School/UNICAMP and Master’s (CNPq/2001 Scholarship) from the Arts Institute/UNICAMP. Author of the books Corpo como Suporte da Arte – Piercing, Implante, Escarificação, Tatuagem, SENAC Editors, 2005, Corpo Inciso, Vazado, Transmudado – Inscrições e Temporalidades, Annablume/FAPESP Editors, 2009. She also curated the exhibit “Tecidos: Epidérmicos e Têxteis – Invólucros de Proteção, Adorno e Modificação”, at the National Arts Institute Gallery at UNICAMP in 2015.
Biologist, writer, and sexual dissidence activist. Doctor in Biochemistry from the University of Chile. Member of the University/Utopian Sexual Dissidence Collective (CUDS). He has published Corión/familia en interfase in coauthorship with Cristián Cabello (2008) and Romantic Pop, several authors, both with the poetry-oriented Moda y Pueblo (Fashion and the People) Editors. Among his publications are Desmontar la lengua del mandato, criar la lengua del desacato by Mantis+ Trio editors (2014), and Inflamadas de retórica: escrituras promiscuas para una tecnodecolonialidad alongside Dominican performance artista Johan Mijail, Desbordes editors (2016). His work builds on the link between writing, pharmaceutical politics, artistic practice, feminist theory and aesthetics. He has participated in national and international group projects and colloquiums on Art and Sexual Politics. In the scientific arena he work in Biomedicine, focusing on sign transduction and in cancer and neuroscience cellular and molecular biology. He, also, writes an op-ed column for the online newspaper El Desconcierto.
PhD in Sociology, Paris 12 University, professor and research fellow at the Department of Social Sciences of the University of Chile. She currently coordinates the Doctorate in Social Sciences and the Sociology of the Body and Emotions Centre that addresses the body and violence; health, body and politics as well as the body and the State. Alongside researchers from Argentina and Latin America at ALAS she researches the body’s place within the social sciences in theoretical and methodological terms and is in charge of working groups regarding the Body and Emotions. She has been researching migrant phenomenon in Chile for over 10 years, seeing into its causes and consequences within Chilean society, concentrating mainly on the manner in which it has reacted to the arrival of Afro-Latin American immigrants, negritude being one of the most developed aspects. She is working on the problem of racism in Chile on the educational project We educate against racism, part of the Valentin Letelier program of the University of Chile. She has published several articles and coordinated the book for Editorial Universitaria, “Racism in Chile: skin as an immigration label”.
Designer from the Pontifical Catholic University of Chile, Maestra Atrium in History from the University of Santiago and Doctor in Latin American Studies from the University of Chile. Specialist in history of attire and fashion, she has published various articles in academic reviews and popular magazines. Author of the book Tejidos Blandos. Indumentaria y Violencia en Chile 1973-1990 (Soft Tissues. Attire and Violence in Chile 1973-1990), 2013. Municipal Literature Essay Award winner, 2014. In 2008 and 2009 she worked as a columnist for La Cultura Domingo supplement of La Nación newspaper and, in 2013, she was a panelist for the show Una Nueva Mañana (A New Morning) on Cooperativa Radio. She currently collaborates for Mujer magazine of the La Tercera newspaper and runs the Political Legislative History Unit for the Library of National Congress. The first edition of her book Morir un Poco. Moda y Sociedad en Chile 1960-1976 (Dying a Little. Fashion and Society in Chile 1960-1976) was published in 2004.
Source: Revista Capital
Country: United Kingdom
She works as a designer, curator and researcher exploring fashion in context through the intersection of theory and practice. Seeking to expand what constitutes ‘fashion practice’ her work reveals patterns of use and the construction of value and meaning in clothing and fashion. Ruby’s critical and experimental approach proposes alternate modes of engaging with and producing fashion by framing the garment as a unique artefact carrying traces of social, cultural and economic interactions and transactions. Ruby is a Lecturer in Design at Goldsmiths, University of London. She launched and convened the innovative MA Fashion programme from 2013 – 2017 which pioneered students combining research with making to cultivate new and inclusive ways of thinking and doing fashion. From September 2017 she will be co-convening the new MA Design Expanded Practice including the Fashions & Embodiment Studio, which will continue to provide a platform for design and fashion as a critical and social undertaking. She is also member of the Goldsmiths Fashion Research Unit that brings together a wealth of academic and industry expertise across a range of departments at Goldsmiths.
Chilean researcher, theatre director and playwright, she has been residing in Mexico for the past ten years. She holds a Bachelor’s in Fine Arts degree in Theatre Acting from the University of Chile as well as a Master’s and Doctorate degree in Latin American Studies from the UNAM, National Autonomous University of Mexico. She is part of the SPEEP, Permanent Research Theatre and Performance Seminar from the same university. Her work has concentrated on non-hegemonic stage experiences or those not validated by traditional conceptual theory on the subject. In her research, she has established a dialogue between Latin American and Theatre Studies. Her extended study of the Mayan communities in the Chiapas highlands in Mexico has further progressed into the analysis of the utilization of traditional costume within large cities and costume within ritual and festive contexts.
Designer and social researcher. She received an MFA in Fashion Design and Society from Parsons School of Design. Social Psychology graduate from Cayetano Heredia University where she also earned a Master’s degree in Educational Psychology and a Doctorate in Public Health. She is currently a professor at Parsons, The New School University in New York and maintains and independent creative practice. Lucía manufactures clothing and other wearable objects as critical devices at the intersection of fashion design and social sciences. She is interested in gender, health and global fashion practices. She has developed projects related to activism, education and non-western fashion systems.
Comprehensive designer graduated from the School of Design of the Pontifical Catholic University of Chile. She is, currently, a professor at the same university and has specialized herself in auteur fashion. Farías Zurita founded and directed one of the most influential commercial specialized fashion spaces in Chile, Hall Central. As a consultant for public and private entities that support fair trade, she has designed and operated programs that merge contemporary design with traditional Andean knitwear. Author of the exhibit “Eco fashion in Chile” (2013) and the “Sustainable Andes” seminar (2014), both pioneers in their field in Chile. She was chosen to represent Chile in the International Fashion Showcase during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week London (2015). Her collections have been on display at Berlin’s Greenshowroom, devoted to ethical and eco fashion, during Berlin Fashion Week since 2015. Her collections are presently sold in Europe and Chile.
Picture: Esteban Vargas Roa
Country: United Kingdom
Siân is Deputy Director for Goldsmiths’ Institute for Creative and Cultural Entrepreneurship (ICCE), where she is also Convenor of the MA Creative and Cultural Entrepreneurship. She worked with the original Creative Pioneer Team at Nesta (the National Endowment for Science, Technology and the Arts) and was responsible for the content and delivery of The Academy – Nesta’s residential enterprise development programme. The majority of participants on this programme developed social enterprises. Her work has focused on new, socially responsible approaches to business. She co-developed the programme Small Medium Large to review strategies for growth, sustainability and investment readiness for cultural and creative organisations. Siân developed the material with the rest of the Creative Pioneer team for Nesta’s Creative Business toolkit and trained a number of trainers who continue to develop and deliver the work under a Creative Commons licence, for clients including the British Council. Through her 20 years of experience, she has developed new programmes and researched in to new models of leadership in a socially networked era, and new paradigms of leadership in social enterprises, creative and cultural industries.
Trans/stage artist designer. Graduate in Fine Arts, Theatre Design concentration, from the University of Chile. By means of his brand or performative mask, Maraca Barata (Cheap Whore), he has, recently, been able to display on stage what may be referred to as a trans-disciplinary game (As in, transvestite activism), neo-andida sudaca architecture and neo baroque post porn exhibitionism. He has constructed various spatial architectures that promote a discontinued line of sight in a critique of essentialist views of identity (whiteness, heterosexuality, homo-normative). He has worked on a neo-southern zombie version of the hollywood icon Carmen Miranda, emptying her of Brazilian tropicalism in order to construct an experiment that denounces the exotic as a tool for globalized capitalism. In this same line of work, he has continued to perform his most well known performance “Me gritaron Negra” (They yelled blackie at me), a piece that builds on a local story of infamy to reconstruct other discourses and expose outcast bodies. He has taught workshops on Characterization, Makeup & Body Art, Performance, Stage design and Theatrical costume at the University of Chile, Uniacc University, the Fernando González Academy and other institutions since 2009.
Graphic designer graduated from DuocUC and self-taught textile artist. He completed fashion photography and creative design workshops at the School of Visual Arts in New York during 2012 and 2013. He has been working with masks and mascot costumes for five years, developing experimental pieces with plaster and wool and, ultimately, specializing in knitting and crochet technique. His work has been characterized by the creation of human body sculptures where he utilizes different materials to create volume and grotesque unconventional deformities that break with the contemporary aesthetic canon. He was selected, in February 2017 to exhibit his knitted dress in “Animita” for Chile at the International Fashion Showcase during Mercedes Benz Fashion Week London alongside Sisa and Chilean designers Lupe Gajardo and Matías Hernán.
Prominent national and international guests will participate in Critical voices, where they will lead a reflection and dialogue, stemming from their own theoretical and creative practices, around the mechanisms power and subversion throughout fashion and clothing.
A series of brief provocations, 10 minutes long, selected from an open call seeking to promote, give visibility to and stimulate emerging talent including artists, theorists, researchers, designers and general public. They will present articles exploring power and subversion in fashion and clothing, the conference’s central themes.
Each discussion panel will give feedback to the Utopias in action workshops. Here the premise is to have participants think of Utopia as a future that is possible and, from there, propose a vision and practice critical of the Eurocentric fashion construct that has been imposed as the only plausible structure.
Celebration for the end of the meeting. More information soon.
Intervention “Feminismos en toma” Collective of sexual dissidence CUDS, 2013.
Disobedient Fashion will open with the words of Catherine Flood, curator of Word and Image Department of the Victoria and Albert Museum of London who co-curated the Disobedent Objects exhibit from July 2014-February 2015. Catherine will share her thoughts on the problem of disobedience, as presented in the show, which focused on the meaningful role of objects in protest movements.
Understanding that these objects were made in the heat of the moment and with the urgency that is generated by a crisis, Disobedient Objects tried to demonstrate how political activism stimulates the mind and collective creativity whilst, simultaneously, defying common notions in Art and Design.
The title of the panel is evocative of the artistic meeting of the Ma Colère (My Anger) collective, where a group of women, using the slogan “My Body is a Battleground” decided to reappropriate their own anger in order to redefine their own bodies.
We assume that fashion is inevitably tied to the body because the body has such a predominant role as a territorial and cultural sign within the fashion world. In Bodies in battle we make use of conceptual elements found in a variety of disciplines that may assist us in finding areas of conflict in the relationship between fashion and the body in contemporary society.
Beatriz Ferreira Pires, Brazil. Architect and Visual artist. Researcher and Professor of the Textile and Fashion course at the School of the Arts, Science and Humanities, Sao Paulo University.
Jorge Diaz, Chile. Biologist and sexual dissidence activist. Member of the University/Utopian Sexual Dissidence Collective (CUDS).
María Emilia Tijoux, Chile. Sociologist, academic and researcher. Social Sciences Doctorate Coordinator at the University of Chile.
Casey Butcher, USA / Chile. Translator, teacher and decolonial antiracist activist. Member of the Anti-Racist Umbrella Organization La Champurria.
Performance “Me gritaron negra” by Maraca Barata (Camilo Saavedra)
Photo: Macarena Rodriguez
To be confirmed according to the selection results.
In Dressing and resisting we aim to disassociate fashion with the notion that defines it as a mere object of commercialisation, entertainment and perpetuation of current cultural tendencies and through this action be able to reflect on the powerful political function that clothing has in situations of struggle and resistance in the world.
Pía Montalva, Chile. Designer and fashion historian. Author of the books Tejidos Blandos. Indumentaria y Violencia en Chile 1973-1990 (Soft Tissues, Attire and Violence in Chile 1973-1990) and Morir un Poco. Moda y Sociedad en Chile 1960-1976. (Dying a little. Fashion and Society in Chile 1960-1976)
Ruby Hoette, United Kingdom. Designer, curator, researcher and co-convenor of the MA Design Expanded Practice in the Design Department at Goldsmiths, University of London.
Javiera Núñez, Chile-Mexico. Latin American studies researcher, theatre director and playwright. Member of the Permanent Research Seminar for Theatre and Performance (SPEEP) at the National Autonomous University of Mexico, UNAM.
Moderator: Manuela Riveros, Chile. Bachelor of Fine Arts. Head of Research and Content, La Moneda Palace Cultural Center.
Carnival of San Pedro Chenalho, Chiapas, Mexico. 2012.
Photo: Javiera Nuñez.
To be confirmed according to the selection results.
Place, community and nature constitute fundamental values within a growing movement that seeks to reinvent ways of conceiving fashion.
The local, in contemporary fashion, has been understood as a basic sustainability principle for local ecosystems that has the power of benefiting communities, through their own know-how, natural resources and social particulars, into developing and flourishing within their own territory. In Situated practices we aim to re-visit certain practices that have been left behind and that are now being recovered and modified in the context of fashion. We will discuss the implications of these initiatives as responses to a multidimensional fashion system in crisis.
Lucia Cuba, Perú. Fashion designer and Social scientist. Assistant Professor of the Fashion Design course at Parsons The New School for Design, New York.
Gabriela Farías Zurita, Chile. Comprehensive designer, academic and consultant. Founder and design director of the Zurita Design Company.
Sian Prime, United Kingdom. Trainer, facilitator and consultant. Director of the Master’s in Creative and Cultural Entrepreneurship at Goldsmiths, University of London.
Moderator: Tamara Poblete P., Chile. Bachelor of Fine Arts and researcher in Contemporary Fashion Studies. Founder and director of Disobedient Fashion.
Project “Ejercicios en salud” of Lucia Cuba.
By Sian Prime and Ruby Hoette, United Kingdom. Fashion Research Unit, Goldsmiths University of London.
Celebration for the end of the meeting. More information soon.